How Black hair care grew Black power

Key takeaways

The Johnsons' innovative approach to meeting and anticipating the needs of the Black community played a crucial role in their success.
The podcast illustrates the integral connection between Black culture, entrepreneurship, and the evolution of Black hair care.
Going public brought significant financial gain to the Johnson family, but also challenges that led to a loss of control over their company's vision.
Olivia Joan Colley's reflection on her family's history highlights ongoing issues of representation and ownership in Black beauty care today.
Through their products, the Johnsons financially supported the civil rights movement and left a lasting impact on Black empowerment.

Summary

The Legacy of Olivia Joan Colley and Her Grandparents

The episode introduces Olivia Joan Colley, a young black photographer on TikTok, showcasing her grandmother's luxurious vintage clothing collection. Her grandmother, Joan Johnson, was part of a family that embodied wealth and style, wearing custom dresses from luxury designers. Olivia emphasizes her grandmother's significant Black heritage in a time when such luxury was rare for Black Americans.

George and Joan Johnson: Pioneers in Black Hair Care

The podcast explores the achievements of George and Joan Johnson, who co-founded Johnson Products Company. Their understanding of the needs of the Black community led to the creation of popular hair products that not only catered to beauty but also funded civil rights causes. Their company set a precedent for Black entrepreneurship in America.

The Evolution of Black Hair Culture

The narrative shifts to the historical context of Black hair care, highlighting the shifts from the conk hairstyle to the afro and eventually the jheri curl. The Johnsons adapted their products to reflect societal movements and changes, most notably with the shift toward embracing natural hair during the civil rights era.

From Small Business to Industry Giant: The Public Offering

The Johnson Products Company rose to unprecedented heights by going public in 1971, marking a significant milestone for Black-owned businesses. However, this transition also brought challenges, including losing control over product direction and facing increased scrutiny from investors.

The Demise of Johnson Products

The podcast details the challenges and eventual decline of Johnson Products, highlighting the competition they faced with new hairstyles like the jheri curl and the impact of being publicly traded. Despite Joan's efforts to turn the company around post-divorce, Johnson Products ultimately transitioned out of Black ownership.

A Reflection on Legacy and Current Trends

The episode concludes with Olivia reflecting on her family's legacy in the beauty industry and her discontent with the current landscape, where many hair care products aimed at Black consumers are owned by white companies. She expresses a desire for more authentic representation in the industry.

Show notes

The Afro is one of the most iconic hairstyles of the last century. And one of its main ingredients was a hair product – Afro Sheen. But Afro Sheen did so much more than make Black afros shine. It was the money behind the television show Soul Train, it helped fuel the civil rights movement – all because of an entrepreneur named George Johnson.

For decades, Joan and George Johnson owned and ran Johnson Products Company, a Black hair care company out of Chicago. Their intimate understanding of what Black people wanted and needed – for their hair and for their lives – helped grow the Black middle class and became an engine for Black culture and power. They helped turn the Black haircare industry into what is now a multi-billion-dollar industry. But although they helped create this industry, they no longer have a part in it.

Today on the show – the story of the rise and fall of Johnson Products. We’re gonna tell you this story in three hairstyles. The conk, the afro… and the jheri curl.

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This episode of Planet Money was hosted by Sonari Glinton and Erika Beras. It was produced by James Sneed, edited by Marianne McCune, fact-checked by Sierra Juarez, and engineered by Jimmy Keeley. Alex Goldmark is Planet Money’s executive producer.

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