The Distance: Steeped In History

Key takeaways

Preserving history involves more than maintaining vintage decor; it requires adapting services to modern tastes and operational hours.
The craftsmanship of traditional dim sum is hard to sustain because of labor shortages and the difficulty of mastering the craft.
Expansion and innovation are vital for the longevity of long-standing eateries, allowing them to attract new chefs and audiences.
Authenticity in food can be flexible; Wilson values tasty and affordable meals over strict adherence to traditional definitions.
Running multiple restaurant locations spreads responsibility and necessitates balancing tradition with innovation to stay relevant.

Summary

The Legacy and Evolution of Nom Wah Tea Parlor

This section explores how Nom Wah Tea Parlor, established in 1920 as NY's oldest dim sum restaurant, has maintained its historic charm while adapting to modern needs. Wilson Tang, who took over the restaurant in 2011, has preserved its vintage ambiance, keeping the authenticity of the vintage decor and traditional settings. He emphasizes the importance of authenticity, but also recognizes that modern trends and customer preferences require flexibility. Wilson has innovated by extending hours and serving dim sum for dinner, breaking traditional daytime-only service. These changes aim to keep the restaurant relevant and accessible to broader audiences, as well as addressing the challenges of staffing traditional dim sum chefs.

Challenges Facing Traditional Dim Sum and Business Growth

This section discusses the declining tradition of skilled dim sum chefs and the labor-intensive nature of the craft, which poses a challenge for preserving authentic techniques. Wilson also talks about the difficulties that come with expanding a historic business through new locations, like Nolita and Philadelphia, which serve as testing grounds for more innovative or modern takes on Chinese cuisine. The expansion introduces a talent gap, but also provides opportunities to attract younger chefs and experiment with new recipes. Wilson highlights that maintaining authenticity is less about strict tradition and more about creating enjoyable, accessible food for a diverse customer base.

Wilson Tang’s Personal Journey and Future Outlook

Here, we learn about Wilson's personal evolution from a corporate career to a restaurateur inspired by his family’s legacy. His experience with a previous bakery venture gave him insight into the restaurant industry, pushing him to eventually succeed his uncle at Nom Wah. Wilson reflects on the pressures of managing multiple locations, the importance of innovation, and the burden of responsibility for staff and business survival. He aims to keep Nom Wah relevant for future generations and is optimistic about expanding further, despite the big challenges faced by the restaurant industry today.

Show notes

Nom Wah Tea Parlor is New York Chinatown’s oldest dim sum restaurant. For decades, it served Cantonese dumplings and rolls in the traditional way, from trolleys pushed around the restaurant. When Wilson Tang took over Nom Wah in 2011, he switched from trolleys to menus with pictures and started serving dim sum through dinner. He also opened new locations that broadened Nom Wah’s repertoire beyond dim sum. These were big changes for a restaurant that opened in 1920, but Wilson saw them as measures to secure Nom Wah’s future for its next century in business.

This episode first aired on The Distance in May 2017. Nom Wah has reduced operations due to COVID-19, but you can support the restaurant by purchasing merchandise: https://nomwah.com/shop/.